Update

Zdravo!

I know it's been several years, but I want to confirm I am no longer using or posting on this blog.  I have decided to leave it up because I think it could still be useful for anyone interested in a foreigner's first impressions of life in Sarajevo.  I am still getting quite a few hits from all over the world!

I am doing well, remaining in Sarajevo and playing with the Sarajevo Philharmonic regularly since my last update. (I was offered a permanent contract in the spring of 2013)  My husband Ross is also doing well, and has been graciously shuttling between Sarajevo and Chicago, teaching at universities in both locations.  If you are interested in following my new professional blog/website, check it out: https://meganrobbinsoboe.wordpress.com

On Hold

My apologies, but I'm going to be taking a break from blogging for a while.

The past few weeks have been quite busy, and I am afraid that my schedule will only get more hectic.  I really like to write as a way of processing new events and ideas, but have not found the energy to keep up with blogging lately, especially since I have a dissertation to write this year.  Maybe once I manage to complete my first draft, I will resume blogging for the remainder of this year...

Friends and family, I look forward to staying in touch via Facebook, email and Skype.

Thanks for following everyone!

Writer's Block

I realized that I haven't posted any new blog entries in a while.  Frankly, I haven't thought of much to write about and when I've had time to write, I've been concentrating on my dissertation.
Due to a slashed budget, the Sarajevo Philharmonic does not have very many performances or rehearsals this month.  Last week, we played La Traviata and this week we play a Bosnian opera called Hasanaginica.  We've had nice, warm weather the past few days, so I'm trying to spend some time walking outside when I'm not working, writing, or practicing.
Today is a Muslim holiday, Eid al-Adha, know as "Bajram" here, commemorating Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his son.  Many families sacrifice a sheep, and observe the holiday by praying and feasting.  Otes seems a little bit quieter than I expected (I remember lots of firecrackers the last time I was here for Bajram) but maybe people are saving energy for celebrating the soccer match tonight.  If the Bosnia-Herzegovina teams wins tonight's game, they will go to the World Cup tournament in Brazil.  Fingers-crossed that tonight will be a very happy one in Sarajevo.
I'll try to think of a good topic for my next post, and am happy to take any suggestions :)

Zagreb Performance Day

Before our concert on Saturday night, I had a bit of energy and decided to take myself out for a walk around Zagreb. I was worried about getting too tired and my feet did get a little sore, but I am so glad that I got to see more of the city. Here are a few more pictures:

Croatian National Theater.  So beautiful but unfortunately not big enough for  large concerts.

Jelačić Square

Flowers everywhere

I enjoyed playing the concert, despite the very difficult music and some nervous colleagues. As always, there were a few glitches here and there, but I was satisfied with my final solo (despondency suits the oboe quite well, hehe). I especially enjoyed the movements with full chorus, which were powerful with so many singers on stage.

Maybe I should explain and describe Britten's War Requiem, which I find to be a magnificent piece (some of my friends disagree with me). Britten wrote the 90-minute work to involve a massive amount of people, including a full orchestra, a chamber orchestra, organ, boys' (or in this case girls') choir, organ, chorus, and three soloist singers. The text alternates between the traditional Latin text and poetry by Wilfred Owen. The poetry describes the brutality and senseless of war, and I personally find the pacifistic message to be quite moving. I felt honored to be part of a performance that united musicians from Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, and Serbia to convey Britten's anti-war ideology.

After the performance, I attended a nice reception held in the lobby of the concert hall, and then went out with two of my Sarajevan friends as well as several of the young foreign musicians from Zagreb Philharmonic. They were quite friendly and I had a great time getting to know them and hearing about what it is like to play and live in Zagreb. I hope that later this year, I can go back to visit and get to know the city even better.

Vienna Philharmonic

About a week ago, I found out that the Vienna Philharmonic would play in Zagreb at the Lisinski Theater the night before our performance of Britten's War Requiem at the same venue. I was excited about the chance to, perhaps, see a rehearsal if we were permitted in the theater at the same time. However, I in no way expected to be able to see the concert, since tickets were quite expensive and probably sold out.

Because of a lucky turn of events on Friday, I not only got to see the concert, but I actually got to sit on stage, among some added chairs, right behind the brass section! After being invited to watch a short sound check an hour before the concert, I went to the stage door with Azra, a clarinet player in the Sarajevo Philharmonic, and met a horn player from the Zagreb Philharmonic who said we might be able to get in if we asked. We asked and were initially turned away. I guess we looked sad enough, because the guy who turned us away then had a change of heart and said that we might be able to come in and sit on stage behind the orchestra. Ok!

My view

The Vienna Philharmonic played Tchaikovsky's Third Suite (I was not familiar with it, but it has some great English horn solos) and Shostakovich's Fifth Symphony, with Lorin Maazel conducting. I really enjoyed hearing such a strong and unique orchestra. The Vienna Philharmonic sounds different from any other major orchestra because they play on special woodwind and brass instruments. The Viennese oboes are completely different from the more commonly played French conservatoire oboes and have a very warm sound. (The disadvantage is that there is less consistency between each note of the scale.) I've never heard a Viennese oboe played live, so I was happy to be able to sit so close. Also, Azra pointed out that the orchestra managed to make the ¾ movement of Shostakovich's fifth symphony “Viennese” by adding a little lift after each downbeat in the style of a waltz. It was a little odd, but definitely interesting to hear.

The Vienna Philharmonic is known for its conservatism and, unfortunate history of exclusion. Women were not allowed to join the orchestra until quite recently, and even now I only counted 6 female members. (The former principal flutist has spoken openly about the sexism and racism she encountered during her time in Vienna: http://www.artsjournal.com/slippeddisc/2013/08/vienna-principal-flute-speaks-out-about-her-dismissal.html ) However, despite my mixed feelings about the orchestra, I cannot help but appreciate how well they play and how much they preserve a unique sound and style. There are some days full of unexpected surprises that leave me feeling quite lucky, and Friday was definitely one of those days.

Zagreb Day 1

The Sarajevo chamber orchestra and chorus departed bright and early on Thursday morning for Zagreb. We travelled by Centrotrans bus, and I'm happy to say that the trip was relatively uneventful. I always expect the worst for bus trips, since we've been seriously delayed every other time I've travelled by bus in Bosnia. This time, some small piece of the bus apparently fell off, but the driver said it “wasn't important” and we continued without delay. We were also fortunate to have quick and easy border crossings.

After arriving in Zagreb, I was assigned to a four-bed hotel room with three other women from the orchestra. The bathroom door didn't close and later the toilet broke... ugh. However, after complaining, we were able to upgrade the next morning to two separate, very nice rooms with huge bathrooms, so all in all I felt quite spoiled being in a fancy hotel room. Being the oboe nerd that I am, I was delighted that our room had a nice big desk with a lamp, perfect for adjusting my reeds. We also were provided with a decent breakfast and lunch buffet each day, and I enjoyed eating well throughout the trip.

Initially, I was only somewhat impressed with Zagreb. There are a lot of grey, ugly, buildings outside of the city center. But there are also a ton of parks, full of colorful flowerbeds, and a lovely city center filled with Austro-Hungarian architecture. Each day that I was in Zagreb, I liked it better and better, even with constant gray, rainy weather.

Thursday was a pretty tiring day, as we had a seven hour bus ride, followed by our first rehearsal in the Lisinski Theater. It's not very attractive, but the acoustics were wonderful and the hall is quite large. Despite being a bit nervous, the chamber orchestra got through our rehearsal without any major problems and were dismissed early.

Lisinski Theater

Everyone from our orchestra went out for coffee and/or beer at the theater to celebrate, but I was dying to check out the city center. Fortunately, my roommate for the trip, Azra, agreed to go with me, and we wandered past the train station, through several parks, and over to Jelačić sqaure, with it's famous horseman statue. We also made it over to the cathedral, which was gorgeous, especially lit up at night. My friend Ivana knows Zagreb quite well, and recommended a restaurant called Nokturno, just about a block away from the Cathedral. I thought it was quite good (I had pizza and a Croatian beer) and very reasonably priced.

Cathedral at night

On Friday morning, we had our first full rehearsal with everyone from both orchestras and the several choirs on stage. I had a great time hearing Britten's War Requiem fit together, and meeting some of the friendly younger musicians from the Zagreb Philharmonic. After the rehearsal, I had just enough time to eat lunch and take a short nap before stopping back over at the Lisinski to check out the Vienna Philharmonic. More on that later!

Brief Update

The past week and a half has been full of rehearsals, getting to know my new American colleagues, settling in...

The orchestra had its season opening concert last Thursday night.  We played four Wagner overtures as well as Tchaikovsky Rococo Variations, featuring a fantastic Russian cellist.  Not a bad way to build up my endurance after a year of playing only a few easy gigs.

The concert went okay, despite my awkward English horn reed chirping in the opening bars of Tristan and Isolde (whoops).  The orchestra seems a little bit tense, and sad, since the budget has been slashed and money is very tight.  No receptions and our late October concert has already been cancelled.  I really hope that things start to turn around soon.  It seems to me like Sarajevans place a lot of value in their cultural institutions, and the philharmonic has a history of perseverance during difficult times, so I am trying to remain optimistic that the orchestra will manage to overcome their current financial struggles.

I feel very fortunate to be a part of a small chamber orchestra, invited to Zagreb to participate in a performance of Britten's War Requiem, alongside other musicians from throughout former Yugoslavia.   We leave bright and early, tomorrow morning.  I've never been to Zagreb, outside of the airport, and I can't wait!