Graffiti

           I’ve been meaning to write a post about graffiti in Sarajevo for months.  Graffiti is everywhere here!  When I first came to Bosnia, the amount of graffiti made quite an impression on me.  I saw tags on almost every building I passed, and all over the inside of the tramcars.  There is graffiti in every neighborhood that I frequent: in the city center, Bascarsija, Ilidza, and Otes.

In the US, graffiti is usually only found in certain places: on the sides of highways, in public restrooms, on public transit. There is a stereotype that graffiti artists are young urban males.  For better or worse, graffiti in America is often associated with poverty, gangs, crime, and violence. There was a huge anti-graffiti/vandalism campaign in New York in the mid-1990s.  It was part of a controversial, though possibly somewhat effective, method of crime prevention under Mayor Guiliani’s administration.  Of course, graffiti can also be viewed as a unique means of artistic and personal expression, and there are some beautiful works that have been painted both legally and illegally.  I’ve seen some graffiti that was commissioned by private companies or city governments.  I have even heard of graffiti being displayed in art exhibitions and galleries.  However, many Americans still, more often than not, view graffiti in a negative light.

I don’t think that Bosnians have exactly the same attitude toward graffiti.  From what I can tell, graffiti does not seem to have the same strong associations with crime, violence, and gangs.  (Maybe it does and I’m just not aware.)  I can’t understand many of the tags, but it seems to me like there are more political/nationalistic messages than in the US.  I have also seen a lot of memorials and proclamations of love.  Without further ado, here is a short "photo story" of the graffiti in Sarajevo:

Tags on the ceiling, walls, and seats of the tram

A typical building facade in Otes, covered in graffiti

The American boys bring the graffiti inside their apartment!

Example of "political" graffiti, in Sarajevo's city center

Close-up of tram graffiti

Graffiti in Mostar: Red Army 1981?

Graffiti is featured in this billboard ad for snacks

Best picture of all!!!  An old woman encouraging a young boy to tag a building in broad daylight in Sarajevo's city center. What?!

Addendum: As I’ve been going through my old pictures to find ones with graffiti, I’ve been surprised and amused to remember some of my first experiences here.  I haven’t put most of my fall photos on my blog, since I didn’t have internet at my apartment until November.  I have them on facebook, complete with some funny captions, and I hope to have a free hour to two this week to put up some of the best ones here.  It will be interesting to reflect on some of my captions, since my perspective has changed a little bit over the months.  So stay tuned…